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 On the express train route from Bangalore to Mysore
on the newly-laid broad gauge line, Srirangapatnam is what is known as an operational
halt. Those in the know can quickly jump off the train and make their way to the
Ranganatha temple close to the rail station. Srirangapatnam is a place which never palls.
Whether it is the beatific idol of Lord Ranganatha smeared with butter and dotted with
tutti-fruity or the beautiful and serene Cauvery river flowing by, it is a place which
beckons and draws the devotee time and again. All the
more wonderful since the Muslim king Tipu Sultan, used to pray here. Both Tipu and his
father Hyder Ali had great faith in Lord Ranganatha and the temple witnessed significant
growth during their reign. Shrines of Lord Ranganatha are invariably found on islands on
the river Cauvery. Srirangapatnam, which lies closest to the origins of the river at
Talacauvery, is known as "Adhi Ranga". Near Sivasamudram is a little known
temple called "Madhya Ranga". The idol here is different from the others as it
is small and painted. "Anta Ranga" or the "final" Ranganatha is found
in Srirangam. Known as "Srirangapuri" or "Lathoshyanapuri" in
Sanksrit, Srirangapatnam is enclosed by the river on all four sides.
Mother Cauvery is said to have sought and obtained three
boons from Lord Ranganatha here. First, that she should be equal in praise to the river
Ganga, second that the place should become an acclaimed shrine and third that devotees
should be granted whatever they wish for when they pray at the temple. According the
Puranas, the Ganga, in whose waters people bathe to rid themselves of their sins, mixes
with the Cauvery once a year to regain her pure status. There is also a legend associated
with Sage Gautama. Gautama, who was known for his hospitality, was living on the banks of
the river Godavari with his disciples when a plot was hatched against him by some sages,
who came from a famine-hit area. They wanted to stay on in the place after driving sage
Gautama away. With their powers, they created a cow. When Gautama's disciples drove away
the cow from the paddy fields, it fell at the sage's feet and died. Immediately the sages
who wanted to supplant him raised a hue and cry that he had killed the cow. Gautama, who,
in his wisdom, knew what had happened, cursed those sages and embarked on a
"Theerthayatra". After praying at several places, he came to worship at
"Thennarangam" (Srirangam). 
The Lord appeared before him and bade him pray at
"Adhi Ranga", where Vibhishana had worshipped. After a long search, Gautama
arrived at Srirangapatnam. He conducted a big yagna there. Mahavishnu appeared before him
and said that he was residing in a huge anthill in a Tulsi garden. As per the sages'
pleas, the divine cow Kamadhenu dissolved the anthill with its' milk. The idol of
Ranganatha was found! That day was in the month of Chitrai, Sukla Paksham, Saptami thithi.
This is celebrated as Sriranga Jayanthi. It is not known exactly when the majestic gopuram
of the Srirangapatnam temple was built. The date is estimated to be around 894 A D.
Vishnuvardhana, the great Hoysala king, invited Ramanujacharya to settle at
Srirangapatnam. The temple was enlarged in 1454 by Timmanna, a viceroy of Vijayanagar.
Saint Ramanuja in fact has a major presence in this area,
as Thondanur, where he built a huge tank and stayed for some years, is only about 20 km
away. At Srirangapatnam, the vimana and the gopura are similar to the Pandya architecture.
Once past the courtyard and into the temple, the smell that is there in all old temples
hits the nostrils. Bats find a comfortable home in these places! The Goddess here is
Ranganayaki. There is also a beautiful idol of Lord Srinivasa to the right of the main
shrine, while facing the latter. The granite idol of Lord Ranganatha reclining on Adi
Sesha is awesome. As always, the "pada darshanam" is all important.
Ambujam Anantharaman
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