Gangai Konda Cholapuram is one of the very ancient temples of Tamil Nadu, built in the Chola style. It was built by Rajendra Cholan, son of Raja Raja Cholan who built the Big Temple - Brahedeeswarar Temple - of Thanjavur. It was the desire of Rajendra Cholan to consecrate a temple similar to the one built by his father and he patterned
Gangai Konda Cholapuram as a replica of the Big Temple.
Though it could not get all the attention, praise and acclaim that the Big Temple received and is receiving, nonetheless it is considered to be a rich treasure house of Chola art, architecture and sculpture. It also cannot be denied that
Gangai Konda Cholapuram has its own marks of distinction and unique features as compared to the Big Temple. Rajendra Chola built many new temples all over his vast kingdom and renovated many ancient temples that were in a dilapidated condition and stopped them from becoming desolate and extinct. Notwithstanding that, only
Gangai Konda Cholapuram remains, reminding his name to the generations that have rushed past in the majestic flow of the river, Time.
Gangai Konda Cholapuram was a city established in memory of the glorious victories of Rajendra Cholan. Situated in the Chennai - Kumbakonam route, it was the capital of the Chola Kingdom for a very long time, commencing from Rajendra Cholan’s period. The temple of
Gangai Konda Cholapuram is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is facing the east. On the northern side of the temple there is a smaller temple, known as
vada kailasam (Kailash of the North) and on the
southern side another similar temple known as then
kailasam (Kailash of the South) is situated.
At one time the
vada kailasam was the sanctum sanctorum of Lord Shiva. It is now the abode of Devi. The Devi is known by the name Periya Nayaki. Sadly, the
then kailasam is an empty structure now, without any deity to give the structure the elated name of a temple.
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There is a
nandhi in front of the temple. When one stands at the eastern entrance, one is really saddened at the condition of the temple tower -
gopuram - worn out and dilapidated, testifying to the fact that it was gnawed away not only by the powerful jaws of Time; but also by the apathy and case-hardened callousness of our people in having failed to preserve a rich treasure house so very generously handed down to us by our ancestors.
There is a flight of stairs to climb to reach the temple, past the grand and mammoth
dwara palakas - watch keepers. That leads us to a very vast
mantap the roof of which is supported by 144 pillars. And the entire temple abounds with rich, beautiful and intricately carved Chola style sculptures on the walls as well as on the roof, 42 in number. A dancing Nataraja, Saraswathi in blissful trance, the Lord adorning the head of Chandeswara sitting at His feet, with a string of flowers and a whole lot of them, creation of the highest kind of dedication and devotion, enthralling and enticing the hearts of the perceiver.
The Lord, enshrined in the sanctum sanctorum is known as Periya Nayakar.
Simmak Keni
On the northern side of the temple, a massive lion is carved in stone. A path between its forelegs leads to a well. The lion is virtually sitting over the well. Hearsay has it that Rajendra Cholan filled the well with the water brought from the holy river, Ganges.
Gangai
Konda Cholapuram is the only temple - or should we call it structure? - that remains now, out of the many temples that Rajendra Cholan built. Though we feel happy at the thought that we are lucky enough to see at least this remains to this date, our minds are gripped by the condition in which they were maintained and continue to be so, sloshed over repeatedly by the massive waves of Time.
When people all over the world are so very proud about their heritage and preserve even a 200-year-old structure, what could be said about our heartlessness in allowing a rich treasure trove slowly marching into nothingness?
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