Jewellery from Bengal at its best! |
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A passion for jewellery is legendary. The pursuit for innovation continues, as does the passion for charming ornaments. It is reflected in the numerous customary occasions where it is not only considered auspicious, but mandatory to gift ornaments crafted in gold. Even the first look by the grandparents of their grandchild is marked by a gift of a gold coin.
The Bengali word for gold, 'Shona', also means 'Darling'. The Bengali bangle, 'Nowa', made from a combination of iron, copper and gold is worn by the bride at the doorstep of her new home and is expected to accompany her even to her funeral pyre! Married Bengali women also wear red and white bangles, which are often decorated with filigree work.
The brides trousseau is incomplete without the gold ornaments and at the engagement ceremony, it is customary for the in-laws to gift the best item of jewellery. It is also customary to wear six gold bangles held together by thicker bangles. These thick bangles are called 'Ruli', where a ring of lac is encased in gold. Another popular form of bangles is the 'Balas'. It is again lac filled and has mythical sea creatures at both ends to form its mouth.
Since many items came to be a part of the rituals, there is a wide range of designs that are celebrated as ritual jewellery. The claw setting designs have become a part of the Bengali heritage, with designs borrowed from European sources. Necklaces adorned with colourful blue-green peacocks and butterflies are instantly eye-catching. Gold chains are made into yard long lengths, which are worn, wrapped in circles around the neck. Women take pride in selecting and designing jewellery for various special occasions.
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