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Depilatories:

Chemical depilatories are used to soften and dissolve the hair, which can then be wiped away with a soft cloth. Depilatories are best suited for the removal of leg hair. They come in pastes, powders, creams and lotions. Specific formulations are sold for use on the legs, groin region, and face. The depilatory is spread over unwanted hair, and left for approximately 5-10 minutes. The resultant "jellylike" hair mass is wiped off, and the area is cleansed with soap and water.

Depilation is painless, hair re-growth is slower than with shaving. Nor does it produce scarring. However, depilatories can cause skin irritation, particularly with prolonged contact. They should never be applied to abraded, irritated or inflamed skin, or used by those with skin problems. Allergic reactions are not common, but do occur, and may be caused by fragrances, lanolin derivatives, or other additives. Hair that is dark or coarse appears to be more resistant to the effects of chemical depilation than lighter or thinner hair.

Lasers:

Recently, a number of different lasers have been used for hair removal. Lasers direct concentrated light energy toward a specific target. In the context of hair removal, they rely on the principle of "selective absorption" of this energy by pigment within the hair follicle, or by a light attractant that has been added to the surface of unwanted hair. The absorbed light energy is converted to heat, which damages or destroys the hair follicle.

Electrolysis:

Electrolysis is the only method of hair removal, aside from the surgical excision of hair follicles, that has been conclusively demonstrated to permanently remove hair. However, there are a number of practical problems with this technique, the most important being the conspicuous lack of regulation of practitioners in many states. As a consequence, there are wide variations in both the quality of this procedure, and standards under which it is performed. Complications from electrolysis include scarring and infection. Despite these risks, electrolysis is a very popular way to remove unwanted hair on the face, chin, neck, etc.

There are three types of electrolysis, which are referred to as "galvanic electrolysis," "thermolysis," and the "blend." All of these techniques involve the insertion of needles into hair follicles, and the subsequent destruction of their deep portions. Only hair follicles in the growing, or "anagen" phase can be effectively treated with electrolysis. Thus, many electrologists instruct their clients to shave the area where electrolysis is to be performed, several days prior to treatment. This, along with the avoidance of other methods of hair removal in the interim, helps ensure that only anagen hair follicles are treated. The procedure is intricate. A properly sized needle must be placed to the proper depth within the follicle in order to be effective without producing scarring.

In galvanic electrolysis, a DC current is passed through the needle. This causes a chemical reaction inside the hair follicle that produces sodium hydroxide, which is also known as "lye." The lye destroys the hair follicle. Thermolysis, or "short-wave radio frequency diathermy," relies on heat to destroy hair follicles. The operating principle of thermolysis is similar to that of microwave cooking. An AC, as opposed to a DC, current is run through the needle. The current causes water molecules that surround the hair follicles to vibrate, which generates heat. The heat, in turn, damages the follicle. When thermolysis is improperly performed, it can cause burning and scarring. It is a much faster, but less reliable technique than galvanic electrolysis.

In the blend method, both DC and AC current are simultaneously passed down the needle. The technique attempts to derive the benefits of both galvanic electrolysis and thermolysis. It works much more quickly than galvanic electrolysis alone. It is essential that electrolysis be correctly performed, to minimize scarring. If a hair follicle has been successfully treated, the electrologist should be able to easily pull out the hair shaft with a forceps. Sterile conditions are mandatory for the prevention of infection.

Published on 21^st March 2002

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