 Mesmerising Mercara
 Our journey from Nagarhole to Mercara (Madikere) was enriching, for the best part of the Western Ghats, which falls in Karnataka, is a place which is known for picturesque landscapes. Here nature guides us into its vast gardens of health and healing.
We had glimpse of Tibet at Bylekuppe. Interestingly, Bylekuppe was formed as a result of the 1960s Chinese aggression. When the Tibetans flocked to India, Bylekuppe, Husur, Mudgod and Kollegal were allotted to the settlers. The sturdy Tibetans cleared the forest in the hills to establish a settlement. This settlement in Kushal Nagar and Bylekuppe is called ‘Little Tibet’.
There is a big monastery there called ‘Namdroling’. There are about 20,000 Tibetans living here and most of them have not had a glimpse of Tibet. The indescribable ‘Golden Buddha Temple’ houses hundreds of monks clad in saffron robes. The monks, young and old, were seen darting from one hall to the other with Buddhist scriptures. Monks from all over the world converge on this place which is an important centre for Buddhist learning.
Namdroling monastery is a sprawling complex and the ‘prayer of wheels’ decorate the façade. This is a giant sized wheel with 12 spikes and carvings of men on it. There is a huge hall with granite flooring and exquisite paintings. The cynosure is the statue of the towering golden Buddha which is 60 ft tall. The statue of Buddha is gold-plated, and He is seated effulgently in Padmasana. The statues of Guru Padmasambhava and Buddha Amityas are placed on both sides of the central Buddha.
 There are two huge pillars intricately carved with beautiful paintings which leave an indelible imprint on one’s mind. The life of Sakya Muni, Buddha, and his teachings are engraved on the walls and the pillars. The colourful pictoral illustrations enhance the ambience and we automatically murmur ‘Buddham Saranam Gacchami’. Nestled in the Western Ghats, we were smitten by its beauty and scenic splendour. Bylekuppe or the ‘place of rains’ captures the quintessence of Tibet.
We were lost in the mountains, greenery and waterfalls while travelling to Mercara. The picturesque capital of Coorg or Kodagu is Madikere or Mercara. The vast manicured matrix of coffee estates and the tall silver oak trees and creepers amidst the coffee plants beg description.
About 9 km from Madikere is Abbey Falls. The breathtaking view of cascading waterfalls resembles a huge silver ribbon ferociously falling on the ground. The waters join the river Cauvery downstream.
Our next halt was ‘Tala Cauvery’. The source of the river Cauvery, which is the lifeline of Tamil Nadu, is situated on a hillock. There is a tiny tank which is believed to be the source of the Cauvery. I stood speechless at the size of the tank. This small spring takes the form of a big river to form a delta and giving life to millions of people. There is an idol of Cauvery Mata next to the tank.
Bagamandala, near Tala Cauvery, a small hamlet, resembles an abode of water. The charm and elegance of the place is indescribable. The Bagandeshwar temple overlooks Karnataka’s ‘Triveni Sangamam’. The captivating myriad shades of green foliage added to its natural splendour. The confluence of Kanaka, Cauvery and the mythical Sujothi is the ‘Triveni Sangamam’. The place also boasts of producing the best honey in the world.
Another important landmark in Madikere is the Raja’s seat. Situated on a hill top, it was built by erstwhile Rajas to view the golden setting sun. There is a beautiful park which is blanketed in mist in the mornings. Rajas seat is an ideal getaway for fatigued city dwellers. The cornucopia of flowers in different hues and shades made us marvel at Nature’s manifestation.
Kodagu landscapes help conserve forest tree species and geographically 2 per cent of Karnataka’s area has 40 per cent of the state’s floral diversity. The Kodagu region is a trekkers paradise. Interesting trails include one in Brahmagiri range and one in Brahmagiri peak.
Omkareshwar temple is another important spot where Lord Siva, in the form of Omkareshwara, is housed in typical west coast temple architecture.
Coorg can be aptly called the Coffee House of India because it is synonymous with coffee. The mountain and landscape has a timeless grace of its own. Reluctantly, we left Mercara and wended our way downhill.
UshaRaja
usharaja60@hotmail.com
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