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The unchanging Mahamaham

The temple city of Kumbakonam had a festive look for Mahamaham. People had a good darshan of all gods and goddess in the city. People said to see the glittering beauty of these decorated gods, one needed more than two eyes.

Adikumbeswarar with Sri Mangalambal, Lord Vigneswarar, Subramaniyar, Chandikeswarar with their vahanas came around the four mada streets of the town and gave blessings both day and night to the pilgrims. With these gods, Sri Sarangapani, Sri Ramaswami, Sri Varadharajar, Sri Vedanarayanar, Sri Anjaneyar, Sri Boovaragan, Sri Nageswarar, Sri Abiayageswarar, Sri Kasi Viswanathar, Sri Gowdameswarar, Sri Banapureeswarar and Sri Gopalakrishnan went around the city in their rathams, blessing pilgrims.

Finishing the rathotsavams, all the deities were brought to their tanks. People started taking bath in Mahamaham tanks from 2 a.m. itself. The tank had only knee-deep water, which was convenient for the pilgrims to take bath.

Beggars were not seen anywhere, due to which there were no petty thefts.

Various mutts such as Sriman Perumanallur Sivan and mutts arranged food for pilgrims, which was a commendable one at Mahamaham. In the day-time, Reddiyar Chatiram provided food for the pilgrims and at night, Rathiri Chatiram provided food.

The generosity of Krishnaswamirayar of Reddiyar Chatiram and Saraswathi Bai of Rathiri Chatiram was appreciable. The Reddiyar Agraharam itself looked like a huge annachatiram.

Every house in the city had many relatives who came for a bath in the Mahamaham tank on the Mahamaham day.

Many people felt that this Mahamaham had more pilgrims than the previous one and that it may be due to awareness among the people. There were many drama troupes, cinema theatres, stores, hotels, etc., which made the pilgrims spend a lot of money.

The lighting provided by the local authorities made the town glitter even at night. Drinking water facilities were also excellent. All the streets in the city were clean.

The arrangements done by railways topped the other departments. The coaches were surprisingly comfortable.

Can you believe that this is the report of a Mahamaham that took place in 1935, about 69 years ago?

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This year’s Mahamaham (as seen in these pictures) saw many of the same things happening – the Gods and Goddesses coming out of their haloed precincts to bless the pilgrims; there being knee-deep water in the tank; the town being very neat and clean; the number of pilgrims growing (this year was phenomenal due to the influence of the TV); hotels and cinemas doing brisk business; people beginning to take their Mahamaham bath at 2 a.m. itself; and there were quite a few Kumbakonam residents feeding people who had come to the town for the festival.

Except for the numbers and the elaborate security arrangements, nothing much seems to have changed with the Mahamaham (which the locals call mamangam). The name seems rather apt, does it not?

 K Srinivasa Rao

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Published on 28th April, 2004

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