About two hours drive from Mysore, through narrow roads and up a hill, lies Thirunarayanapuram, a sacred Vaishnavite shrine. The temple is more commonly known as Melkote, taking the name from the hill on which it is situated. It is also called Yadugiri by the local people. On the way up one can see more than 40 sacred ponds or "kulams". Most of them are dry now, but in ancient times, bathing in all these "kulams" was said to confer salvation.

The temple itself is large and breathes history. It is very ancient – Vishnu is said to have worshipped here before his incarnations known as the Dasavataram. Rama too offered prayers here. The main deity is Thirunarayanan, also called Chelva Narayanaswami. The "moolavar" is called Sampathkumar, Selva Pillai, Ramapriya. The Goddess is Yadugiri Nachiyar or "Goddess of the Hill". There is no separate shrine for Andal here. Other sannidhis are for Ramanuja, who spent a good portion of his life on earth here and Paramapadanada. Outside the temple are shrines to Desika, Manavala Mamuni and other Acharyas. On a hill overlooking the town is a separate Yoganarasimha temple of great antiquity. It is quite a climb on worn steps to reach that temple.

While none of the Azhwars or Vaishnavite saints have sung of this temple, Nammazhwar mentions Lord Thirunarayana in one of his pasurams. Ramanuja interpreted this as referring to Thirunarayana of Melkote. The town itself is peaceful and calm. More of a village, actually. The same family has been serving as chief priest at the shrine for many generations. After darshan, they take us to their home and give us wonderful prasadam. The cuisine of Melkote is quite unique. Unlike the Pongal usually offered in other Vaishnavite shrines, "Ulundurai", a savoury preparation made from Black Gram, is the specialty here. Another delightful sweet is Melkote Manoharam.

The aged chief priest, who has lost his wife, points to her photograph and says that she is his inspiration for continuing to serve the Lord. His sons, daughters-in-law and grand children live together harmoniously in the old fashioned, low-roofed house. He tells us that funds are a problem, but somehow, they are maintaining all the pujas ordained. Only once a year, during the famous Vairamudi Seva, do crowds congregate in Melkote. This festival, when the "utsavar" is adorned with a diamond-encrusted tiara, takes place every year in the month of April. Thirunarayanapuram, with its serene and sacred atmosphere, is a temple one does not want to leave.

Ambujam Anantharaman

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