All that I could remember of Srivilliputhur from a childhood visit was that I yearned to visit the temple again. There was a faint memory of a magnificent gopuram, fainter ones of the shrine being sacred to Andal. Beyond that nothing. So that when the visit did materialise, 30 years later, it was a new and wonderful experience. The temple was undergoing renovation and there were blocks of stone and wood lying everywhere, but is the path to God always not strewn with hurdles?

Traditionally, one should visit the Vatapatrasayee shrine first, before seeing Goddess Andal in all her glory with her consort Rangamannar. Rangamannar is none other than Lord Krishna. To the Lord's left side is Garuda, a unique sight which cannot be seen anywhere else. Not knowing the traditional practice, we went straight into the Andal shrine. The annual "margazhi" festival had come to its conclusion and it was in fact the day of "Kanu pidi" which falls just after Pongal. Never mind that you have missed the festivities, said the friendly priests, and performed a special benediction just for us. 

This is the verse from Andal's Thiruppavai which describes the benefits of observing the Pavai nonbu. "If one observes the Pavai nonbu by singing the praise of the lord who strides the universe, the world will be free of harm, there will be good rains, paddy will flourish and the cows will yield abundantly. Everywhere prosperity will reign". Among all the shrines associated with the Vaishnavite saints, the Azhwars, Srivilliputhur can be said to be the most sacred because it is the birthplace of not one but two Azhwars. Periazhwar and his daughter Andal, who is none other than an incarnation of Goddess Lakshmi herself. There is a beautiful nandavanam in the temple precints where a spot near a Tulsi plant is marked out as Andal's birthplace. It was here that Periazhwar found her, say legends. Touching the mud here will confer all blessings.

A visit to the Periazhwar shrine and the Chakrathazhwar shrine and it is climbing up to the Vatapatrasayee sannadhi. The atmosphere here is different. The sight of the Lord in sayana posture is awesome. There is a silence and stillness here and the presence of Godhead is supreme. The literal meaning of the Lord's name here is "One who is recumbent on the leaf". However, Adisesha too is present here. From the navel of the granite idol emerges the lotus with Brahma, Sridevi, Bhoodevi and two local chieftains called Villi and Puttan. It is said that the place derived its name from these two chieftains. The story of Andal is well known, but can be reiterated for its beauty and the message that total surrender and faith in God always yields results.

Periazhwar used to string a garland everyday for worship of Lord Vatapatrasayee. One day he found that the child Andal was wearing it round her neck and admiring herself in a mirror. He remonstrated with her, but God appeared to him in a vision and said he would only don the garland worn by Andal. One of Andal's names is "Chuudikodutha sudarkodi". Andal's immense faith and daily worship culminated in her wedding to the Lord and her merging with the idol of Lord Ranganatha. After renovation, the mahasamprokshanam of this temple was conducted on February 10, 2000. The important festivals here are the "margazhi" festival and Panguni Uthiram festival, when Andalkalyanam is celebrated.

Srivilliputhur can be reached by train on the metre-gauge line between Chennai and Quilon. The Vatapatrasayee temple was constructed by the Nayak kings, but the story goes a long way back to Pandian times. It would be more appropriate to say that this is a temple which is timeless.

Ambujam Anantharaman

More Articles