Ard-Kwari is a big centre with all amenities, including a hospital, hotels and 'dharmasthalas', where free rooms and blankets are available for pilgrims. The place resounds with Bhajans and Kirtans. There is also a large, clean and inexpensive canteen run by the Vaishnav Devi Shrine Board, where we had tea. The shrine is another six kilometres from Ard Kwari. En route, you see a lot of mountain goats, white, hairy and big-bearded. You also see drummers beating large drums, called 'Mata Ka Nagada', (Mother's battle drum) to whom people offered small amounts of money. Sometimes singers accompanied the drums. We halted at one of the viewpoints, and while resting, heard some songs sung to the beat of the drum. We found it a very invigorating experience.
In the old days, the climb close to the shrine was very hard. It was at a very steep angle and was known as 'Hathi Matha' (elephant's forehead). But now, there is a pathway, a little longer, but less steep and more comfortable, which is the way we took. The path upto three kilometres from the shrine has been fully covered with fibreglass roofing to shelter pilgrims from the frequent rain. This roofing also provides some protection against landslides.
We reached the shrine area about half an hour past midnight. We went to our guesthouse and slept till 4 am. An hour later, after a bath, we were at the shrine for early morning darshan. The passage to the sanctum is not easy. One has to crawl in water through a cave, first on one's belly and then on all fours, and soon one is at the feet of the mother. The idols are really only symbols. They are basically three pieces of uncut stone, one black, one white and one of greyish hue. The black stone represents Kali Mata (Mother Kali), the white stone is Goddess Saraswati and the third is Goddess Vaishnav Devi, a form of Durga. They can be identified as deities from their silver crowns and the pieces of silk draped round them. These idol symbols, believed to be 'swayambhu'(self-created), have existed since time immemorial. In recent times, security has been tightened and one has to go through metal-detectors and baggage checks. Coconuts are not allowed inside, but can be placed outside to be blessed and returned.
There are a lot of souvenir shops nearby and also food stalls, from where the aroma of pure ghee wafted invitingly. There is a traditional custom here of worshipping young girls 'kanjke' (kanyas), like the sapt-kanyas in the South. Young girls living in the area are given offerings of food, clothing and small gifts like ribbons, bangles, a little money etc. We made our gifts to 21 girls and then went to the nearest food stall for breakfast. There were all types of sweets, pakodas, pooris, paranthas available. We had hot paranthas and tea and jelebis and felt quite fit to start our return 14-km journey downhill.
Coming down was easy. It was a bright day and we walked at a leisurely pace, drinking in the scenic beauty we had missed the previous night, walking in the dark. As is the custom, we greeted pilgrims on their way up saying 'Jai Mata Ki'('Victory to Mother'), which is supposed to enthuse them. We met a whole lot of pilgrims from Gujarat, all of them wearing badges, who had come in a well organised group. We also met many South Indian families, specially Tamilians. With pilgrims coming from all over India, there were many young women, walking briskly, baby on one shoulder and luggage on the other, while their menfolk strolled at ease behind. Apparently, in many parts of India, women alone are supposed to carry the burdens. One wondered when the situation would change.
At Ard-Kwari, we shopped for Bhajan cassettes and had another snack of 'Chola Batura' at the Shrine Board canteren, which was quite delicious.Suddenly, we came upon the Government Central School, where 'Masterji' the sculptor was teacher. We remembered our appointment and went in to find him. This was the most beautiful hill school I had ever seen. Masterji and his students had done paintings all along the walls of the school, depicting the story of the Buddha and other subjects. We also saw many more sculptures and craftwork done by the students. I was deeply touched that some humble government school teacher was promoting art in his own small way among these poor children and creating such excellent work. I promised to speak to Mr.Anil Goswami, Chief Executive of the Shrine Board and Tourism Secretary of the state, urging him to create a large sculpture garden for pilgrims to see and appreciate the local talent. I also extended my humble invitation to Masterji to attend our next sculptors' camp at Mahabalipuram and be our guest in Tamil
Nadu.
From there, it was one long walk downhill, and soon we were at Quattro. We returned our hired shoes etc. Charges were very reasonable, only Rs.10 per pair, and soon we were on our way back to Jammu, where we arrived in time for our mid-day meal (our third that morning). But I suppose a 28-km walk entitles one to an extra meal.
