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Kharidunga - 1 Celebrate the Self
Swami Suddhananda

It was a lovely June morning when we left Lamasangu, a small mountain village, tucked in the hills, and headed for Kharidunga.

The sky was clear blue and the cool morning breeze brought about an unusual freshness that enlivened everything. While driving up from 4,000 feet to 9,000 feet through serpentine roads and seeing the vast mountain ranges all around, the mind gained dimensions in which everything was lost.

It was a beautiful trip from myself to myself through this great expanse of vastness, loneliness, isolation and quietude. Everything had a tale to tell. From the rocks to the trees, to the ancient hills and the majestic snow peaks. And they were so mysterious. Such unfathomable secrets were etched in every bit of them that the mind lost itself trying to comprehend even the most conspicuous mystery. Conspicuous because the whole atmosphere invoked the same unknown depth, mysterious because few took note of it and those who found a response within became speechless, completely lost in themselves.

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அஜீத் பேட்டி?
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கமல் பாராட்டிய டைட்டில்

Inexplicable as the feeling was, the eyes roved in silence, the mind reduced to a functional nothingness. And there I was as “I am”, the most mysterious part of the mystery, the content of all that was seen, heard and experienced.

It was not my maiden voyage, my first journey, my first flight across the timeless and spaceless existence, where indeed no travel is ever made possible. Yet the travel from infinite to infinite through the finite world experiences is a pleasant journey without movement where often millions are confused and confounded on the path.

The first hurdle on the path is the outright rejection of the fact that there is something called Infinite, Immortal, Existence, may be some call it Truth, God, love or happiness.

When first heard, the name Kharidunga may also invoke a response of outright rejection. The man who is not familiar with either the name, place or the meaning of the word shall reject the word as a meaningless noise, a by-product of a mind which may be fertile in imagination.

But that does not deny the fact that the place exists and a name exists to describe the place. Those of us used to living in our own worlds, in our own countries, cities, states or villages, will not bother to accept this strange name. The usual argument is that things we don’t know about do not exist. As even those of us with a tiny mind cannot comprehend the strange vastness, the so-called informed minds become intolerant of the fact that something can exist even if they do not know of it.

The mind plays strange tricks and the ordinary man falls a victim to it.

Those who outright reject the fact that there is a place called Kharidunga may never travel that picturesque path, never cross that meandering girdle to the mountains, never enjoy the deep, quiet green of the mountain trees, the fragrance of the wild flowers, or the simple mountain folk who have learnt patience from the mountain, a patience which helps them to stand by the worst of disasters, the poverty, the ravages of nature so common in such high altitudes. They also lost sight of huge birds soaring in the sky, gliding with the breeze, and the blazing, colourful snow peaks constantly changing their mood, from dawn to dusk. And the best of it, they shall not see this beautiful mining town from which one can see the lovely snow peaks and the deep gorge from the same point.

The strangest thing is that when I grow ecstatic about the whole experience, others look at me in utter disbelief and think I am crazy. To make them also enjoy this splendour, I would have no option but to take them to this wonderful place and show them the beauty that transports one into a different dimension.

But most are unwilling to try because they can never believe there are such heights, such calm, such comforting coolness where the sun has apparently lost its harshness. Used to the plains and the heat and the dust, our senses numbed by the gross exposure, our sensibilities crippled by deceptive emotions, we feel so degraded, so degenerated that we can never believe in a mood, a climate, a height where everything disappears leaving us back on our own lap! We cannot believe that nature here cradles a man and swings him to an incomprehensible extreme from where nobody ever returns untouched.

Long before I came to Kharidunga, I had seen it within myself, had felt it, touched it, all within my own being. It had brought out a native calmness that was spontaneous, effortless. I found that here, there, everywhere. Kharidunga was here, there, everywhere.

For long after I saw it, felt it, experienced it, knew it in the depth of total silence and calm, I tried to transport a lot of people to that realm. Those who have responded have found that beauty and those who have not are still being suffocated in the heat and dust of life, a condition imposed not by life but by themselves.

Every day begins with a dawn and every night ends with one. But for many people the day never dawns, and neither does the night come to an end.

Lamasangu is a beautiful place on the plains not far from Kharidunga, as no place is, or as far from the cool haven of Kharidunga as all places are. There are a few hundreds of people, living in small hamlets in their own tiny hutments. There the day begins a little after dawn and continues till the sun sets. Just a few years ago people there were solely dependent upon agriculture for their sustenance. Agriculture being what it is, the people cultivated their lands for a few days a year, sowed their seeds, weeded their plots, then left them in the hands of nature to germinate, grow, flower and ripen for the harvest. Throughout this time men, in their leisureliness, learn a lot from the friendly mountains. They move with the cows, they talk about the weather and the harvests with the same characteristic ease as they talk about birth, death, marriage and all other celebrations of life.

The people of Kharidunga lived with that natural ease and leisureliness for generations. Nobody ever kept track of time. Nobody ever recorded the history of the village or its surroundings. The mountains in their majesty overwhelmed them and the people unconsciously surrendered. If the mountains had no recorded history, if nobody ever knew when they began or ended, these men too never tried to find out about their beginning and end. If they had no choice to begin with, then they also had no choice as to when their lives would end. And they accepted both. Hence they celebrated both birth and death. In between, there were a few moments of excitement. Marriage or coming to know a man or woman was an exciting event in which the whole village participated. Not only to share the joys of the newly-weds, but also to remind the old of the beautiful dreams they had once revelled in. They neither accepted death as an adversary nor friend but as a part of living.

This was how Lamasangu the village was a few years ago. Innocence was in the air, so much of leisureliness, so much of passive acceptance, until the landscape changed with the onset of industrialisation and the maize fields yielded to the erection of kilns and chimneys.

The hours of work changed and drastically changed the lifestyle of the local inhabitants. Now there was work throughout the year and the leisureliness of the agrarian society disappeared. When the hooting of the factory sirens echoed and re-echoed in the mountains, people assembled and dispersed for the sake of ready cash. Everyone had money but few had food. It had to be purchased with ready cash. Money started ruling their lives. The people of Lamasangu found that not only did the money buy them food but also radios, televisions and all the modern appliances available to the consumer society of which they had become a part.

There was tremendous competition. With the arrival of many experts from the outside world, came the symbols of prosperity, fine clothes, big cars, gold watches and pens. The local people struggled to achieve a similar status and their lives were changed for all time. The bug of prosperity and conspicuous consumption eroded the people and their native innocence handed down through the generations could not withstand the new way of life.

But it was not a sad affair. It was a sign of growth and loss of innocence is the price that everyone has to pay for growth.

It happens to individuals, it happens to society, it happens to civilisations anywhere, everywhere. A sudden momentum gathers with the advent of prosperity and we, as a society, do not know how to cope with it. No more is the living isolated and free from interaction with the masses but it becomes a life where one is unconsciously dragged into involvement with strange terrains of human minds.

There life becomes a burden. An emptiness settles into the midst of plenty. At that time we wistfully look back to the past, missing that innocence, that state of carefree leisureliness that once ruled our lives. There, in the realisation of that missing world, we move as sleepwalkers in an apparently colourful world, oblivious to all that is happening around.

There are, of course, many who become completely involved and get lost in the hectic present. These are the people born into this present or those who have wilfully severed their links with the past. Since they have neither tasted nor have value for leisurely contemplation, they dance and fret until one day they disappear from the scene. Such disappearances do not mean death, a callous end to everything, but the scenario changes and they are not more acceptable to the swinging set. Often they rot as would a bull elephant thrown out of its herd by the arrival of a younger and stronger male. 

There on the outside they form groups of rejects who find solace in one another’s company, never imagining that a different tune, a different strain may exist. And they too strive to perpetuate that myth of pragmatism where stress, strain and chaos are the rule. In their eyes this way of life is the ultimate symbol of manliness, strength and human dignity.

Sometimes it becomes almost as difficult to dissuade them from this way of life as it is to dissuade the alcoholic from his addiction. And while a death-wish haunts the alcoholic, these people are haunted by death every moment. Death, to an alcoholic, may stare him in the face but he will ignore it in his drunkenness. But the man obsessed with living refuses to think about death. He fights over changes and struggles to survive. But eventually change overtakes him and his struggle ends on a helpless note.

If it has not yet happened in Lamasangu, then it is happening slowly. If it has not yet happened in our lives, it will happen soon. But those of us who are real fighters do not fight to be defeated all the time, we must sometimes taste victory. Victory is not a myth. And it may be one thing to romanticise human sufferings and miseries but it is yet another to make it a part of life where even death is a co-passenger on the journey.

Long before we strive to go beyond pain and pleasure, long before we strive to go beyond conflict, there is usually an intermediate effort to solve the problem, to avoid the conflict. At that time we may wish to fall back on the innocence that our society once enjoyed, or our people in the lap of the mountains enjoyed far from the din and bustle of the so-called progressive world. We want to travel back in time to when the speed of life did not catch us up.

Yet it is exactly there that our approach to life goes completely wrong. We consider the conflict, the pain, the trauma, the stress and strain of life moving ahead to be a disease or something unnatural that should not be there. We strive to either avoid that conflict or replace it with something else so that we can escape the tormenting situation. The pragmatists and the psychiatrists try to avoid the problem in order to solve it or unconsciously they take the help of time, prolonging the need to analyse the situation.

The situation never wavers whether we delay finding a solution or take the regressive step of going back to the past. Innocence born of ignorance never stages a comeback. Therefore, we must go beyond conflict. Now that the dust is raised in the otherwise sylvan surroundings of Lamasangu, we cannot settle it down. Instead we must bring Kharidunga there, superimpose that haven of calm, composed bliss over the turmoil. It is in the eye of the cyclone where we find absolute stillness even though it is surrounded by tremendous activity.

This is a peculiar centre spreading in all directions. All activities take place in and around it. Lost in the activities we have lost sight of the centre, the base, and thus there appears to be a necessity for a long journey from the turmoil to the central point. But in reality there is no such distance. We can find our destination right now and here, wherever we are.

I found Kharidunga long, long ago. It had no geographical and historical limitations. I, too, was overwhelmed by its might, its pervasive presence but since then I have ceased to exist other than as a part of total existence, even the concept of “part” and “whole” have become meaningless as even the word meaningless is an attempt to conceptualise and describe it. Even mind does not exist, never mind its trying to comprehend or its refusal to move in the vast presence.

However, that simultaneous possibility and impossibility, mobility and immobility, sound and solace make this existence so utterly mysterious.

Existence is, yet it does not exist. It is seen yet it is not seen. Neither is there a seer. It is too much to talk about it. Yet it almost suffocates if it is not talked about. Full of apparent contradictions, the presence makes itself so mystical so mysterious that cutting across it is almost impossible. Yet having cut across those non-existent pairs of opposites, it is impossible to talk about.

This becomes a strange language for the novice. Those of us who are men of the world, those of us from Lamasangu do not comprehend this diction, these expressions, these descriptions. We have our own language, our own descriptions. In our vocabulary the happiness exists as an absence of unhappiness. In our diction immortality exists as opposed to mortality, liberation or freedom exists as opposed to bondage, misery and suffering, with which we are all too familiar. The day-to-day language speaks of misery, pain, poverty, deprivation and despair. The opposites are looked upon as mere romance which has absolutely no reality.

Hence, to talk to the man from Lamasangu who is used to the heat and dust of life, in terms of cool snow peaks, quiet space, calmness and serenity, means only to establish a gap in effective communication. Yet it is difficult, it is inhuman to keep the information a secret while looking at the painful drudgery in the directionless heat of the plain.

There is no other choice except to take refuge in the language that the men from Lamasangu will understand. Since they are used to travelling around in search of something and seeking fulfilment through achievement, I asked the men at Lamasangu to take a trip with me to Kharidunga if they wanted to escape the heat and dust forever.

That was on a clear evening after a day of hectic activity. Almost all of them were tired. The drudgery of their routine had taken away the freshness from their lives. The expectation of a new dawn, a new day, a new evening or place had long since failed to thrill them. They had nothing to look forward to in their lives. Even strangers had ceased to interest them as they quickly learned that every stranger had the same tale to tell, a tale they had heard so often and had monotonously lived out themselves.

I could not tell them they were wrong. Nor I could tell them about my perception of the universe. There is no way they would have understood. Yet, I did not want to leave them where they were, oblivious to the beauty they were unconsciously enjoying. It is difficult to hide beauty. It is difficult to enjoy something alone. Especially when one knows that the potential for that enjoyment lies hidden within oneself.

So, on that beautiful evening when the day’s work had ended and all of us were huddled together in an open space each with our own thoughts, I began my story – the story of my journey from Lamasangu to Kharidunga.

Born in a village in the coastal district of Cuttack in Orissa, I had a normal childhood. There were no miracles when I was born, no stars moved, no blind men had their sight restored. Growing up amidst the simplicity and innocence of village life, along with other children of my age, I had the company of beautiful, natural surroundings. I had seen nature in her divine splendour as well as in her devastating fury.

When schooling began I learned that natural laughter was a liability rather than an asset and that it had to be used with circumspection. Slowly, all natural instincts were curbed in order to grow up as a sophisticated, polished human being There was no doubt that education informed me about the world but it also made us competitors and taught us that others were adversaries standing between us and the goals we had set for ourselves.

We learned about deception and how spontaneous laughter, a smile or off-the-cuff comment was seen to have an ulterior motive. It was difficult to be natural. If at Lamasangu, the industry changed the way of life, in my life, education changed the pace. Going back to the village and its natural environment did not solve the problem. Because there too the world of the grown-ups was vicious and deceptive.

I discovered that if I could not fall back on the village way of life, I could not move ahead in life either. I had already seen and met people labelled by society as “achievers” whose private lives were a failure. They wore masks in public. The professional heights they had reached made it impossible for them to be themselves but they painfully walked through life without being caught on the wrong foot. Even if their hearts were bleeding, they could not show it, as they were not expected to be miserable in their lofty positions. And there was tremendous pressure on them to hold onto their positions as there was competition and it was considered disgraceful to be superseded or replaced.

I had met professors, educationists, administrators and wealthy and influential people on intimate terms. I had seen them drop their masks of achievement and show themselves to be just children, pining for the simple pleasures of life. At the core of these polished professionals was a tender, helpless child camouflaged by a fragile crust of conditioning. They never talked of the futility of their lives nor did anybody care enough to ask. Everyone seemed to be floating. No one ever stopped awhile to think about where they were going.

I was in such a state that neither progression, regression nor suspension meant a thing. It all seemed futile and it was impossible to carry on with what we call normal living. It was Lamasangu at its greatest height.

(To be continued)

Swami Suddhananda
Samvit Sagar Trust
Tiruvannamalai
More Articles Published on Oct 25th, 2007


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